HELP Beetle Guys!

"JCAlan" (jcalan) 09/03/2015 at 16:29 • Filed to: None

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Going to look at a Beetle. It’s my brother-in-law’s wife’s car, been sitting for several years due to a leaking fuel line. He thinks it’s a 71. I know nothing of these cars, but my 13 year old son is enamored with them and would love to have one for his first car. The plan would be to take a couple years fixing it up/modifying it to his liking.

When I go to look at it, what am I looking for? This is obviously a car that I intend to spend some money fixing things on, but I don’t want to start with the world’s worst example. I just don’t know a thing about them.

crowmolly > JCAlan 09/03/2015 at 16:33

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Not a specific Beetle guy, but I’ve worked on a bunch of old cars in various conditions.

Biggest thing is body condition. Working on engines, suspensions, brakes, transmissions, etc is pretty easy to do at home. If you have to replace a roof, rear quarters, etc it gets difficult and expensive very fast. If it’s something you don’t see (like floors) it’s not as big a deal.

Basically, if it’s bolted on, don’t sweat it as much.

Übel > JCAlan 09/03/2015 at 16:34

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Rust, rust, rust, rust. Rust. Heater channels, fenders, battery tray. Otherwise, check for leaks. If it’s driveable, look out for gearbox weirdness (popping out of gear, etc), and make sure it’s running on all 4 cylinders, since the #3 tends to go out. That’s all I can think of at the moment, but old VWs are notoriously bulletproof aside from RUST

deekster_caddy > JCAlan 09/03/2015 at 16:34

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This is how I got my first car. A ‘72 MGB that needed a head gasket 8 years prior and had been sitting... with the head removed... Lots of undercarriage rust, and lots of cylinder wall rust created my first project when I was 14 and an amazing learning experience.

JCAlan > Übel 09/03/2015 at 16:39

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Good call, thanks

Berang > JCAlan 09/03/2015 at 16:44

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Check for rust in trickier areas - like mentioned, the heater channels (that area in front of the rear fenders by the running boards). If it’s just in the floor pan it’s not as hard to cut out and replace, but other areas can become a real PITA.

Otherwise you’d check it out like any other car. Cracked rubber anything? Brake hoses, ball joints, CV boots? Are parts missing? The headliner can be a royal pain to replace.

PS9 > JCAlan 09/03/2015 at 16:46

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But what about your friend’s-sister’s-sidepiece’s-2nd cousin removed’s-dad’s-daughter-in-law’s-husband’s datsun? You’re still coming to look at it aren’t you? You promised!

Übel > JCAlan 09/03/2015 at 16:49

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Keep in mind rust can and will pop up anywhere, especially underneath, those are just the problem areas that come to mind. Make sure to bring a magnet or your listening ears and search the whole car for bondo.

coelacanthist > JCAlan 09/03/2015 at 17:06

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Make sure the belt is in decent shape before trying to test drive it, if it’s been sitting long, it may be dried out. It turns the generator but more importantly, a cooling fan inside the shroud. Oh, also good to start with a dual port engine if possible, very easy to tell the difference.

TouringBubble > JCAlan 09/03/2015 at 17:07

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As mentioned, rust. Check the entire floor pan. Under the battery is the most common, but mine was rusted heavily under the seat rails. The area under the vents in the c-pillars is common too. There is cloth packed in there that wicks water.

Check for leaks around the fuel filler too. Those can sneak by and cause issues if they are overlooked during the rebuild.

JCAlan > PS9 09/03/2015 at 17:08

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Nah, they got divorced.

JCAlan > coelacanthist 09/03/2015 at 17:08

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Good lookin out

JCAlan > TouringBubble 09/03/2015 at 17:15

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Where is the battery?

RallyWrench > JCAlan 09/03/2015 at 17:15

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Right side, under the back seat.

TouringBubble > JCAlan 09/03/2015 at 17:17

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It’s under the rear seat on the right side. If looking under the car, the pan is contoured and the lowest spot of the pan is there under the rear seat. That’s the problem area.